On April 3, Shanghai Winter Fashion Week 2018 ended. Compared with previous years, this season's fashion week is nearly two weeks in advance, smoothly connecting with the purchasing schedule of international buyers, and it is more convenient for Chinese independent designer brands to export to the international market.
A total of 97 costume shows were presented at the four official publishing venues. MODE Shanghai Fashion Show continued to be combined with 6 Showrooms such as ONTIMESHOW, Shitang, DFO, ALTER, NOT and TUBE to further consolidate the concept of “Asia's largest order seasonâ€.
Faced with the wave of consumer upgrades and the recovery of the fashion industry, excellent independent designer brands have gained greater room for growth through the display and business platform provided by Shanghai Fashion Week. The Chinese fashion industry and consumer groups, which are gradually in line with international standards, herald the unlimited potential of the industry in the future.
Business sector continues to strengthen
Autumn and winter 2015 began, Shanghai Fashion Week created MODEFA Shanghai Fashion Show. This year, MODE further collaborated with other six commerce platforms to build the prototype of the concept of "Asia's largest original design brand ordering season". Behind these moves is the core positioning of Shanghai Fashion Week's "Simultaneous creative design and commercial landing."
"The original intention of doing MODE is to help brands find a platform for commercial landing. Corresponding to the media role of the main show field, it constitutes two sections that communicate with each other," said Zhang Jie, the person in charge of MODE.
In just three years, MODE experienced rapid growth. The current MODE debuted in Shanghai Mart, Changning District, and 30 Showrooms brought about 500 brands. “We will ask Showroom to bring high-quality brands, while exhibitors themselves are increasingly aware of the needs here and bring a brand that fits their positioning.†Zhang Jie said that the MODE show is increasingly attractive to Showroom, “ We have attracted more buyers and media attention, and the Showroom here has a new harvest every time."
According to MODE official data, the total number of viewers reached 8086 in 4 days, an increase of 18.7% compared with the previous quarter, and 3120 professional channel buyers, an increase of 11%.
In addition to MODE, other business platforms such as ONTIMESHOW, Shitang, DFO, etc., the number of visitors to the professional audience is also growing. "The Show Room made by MODE - the buyer's shop model is closely related to consumer upgrades and new retail sales. We are standing in the door of the industry's warming trend," said Zhang Jie.
At the same time, the reference to "Asia's largest original design brand ordering season" has also received high attention from the Shanghai municipal government. Shanghai will hold the first China International Import Expo this year, and the Shanghai Business Committee is also working hard to promote the "Shanghai Shopping" city brand building. Under the government’s concern and promotion, MODE has reached a strategic cooperation with Changning Shanghai Mart. The address of the exhibition will be fixed here in the next three years. To this, Zhang Jie said: “With fixed venues, we can do better in exhibition planning. In fact, it is not easy to arrange a venue in downtown Shanghai. With government support, we can reduce the number of flowers we are looking for in the future. , build the venue's energy, pay more attention to brand excavation and enhance the exhibition experience."
In the exhibition experience, MODE Exhibition cooperated with Tmall this year, showing the possibility of Showroom and buyers using data analysis technology. "The time for this cooperation is very short, so we can only use some tools first. If the future cooperation deepens, we can use Ali Big Data to analyze the users, which will guide the designers, Showroom and buyers. Role.†Zhang Jie said.
Spring of independent designer brand
Around 2010, independent domestic designers set off a wave of brand creation. Since no environment suitable for the growth of independent designer brands was formed at the time, many brands eventually closed down. In recent years, with the gradual formation of climate of MODE and other business platforms, Shanghai Fashion Week's "show + exhibition" model has effectively helped small and medium-sized brands to complete the market convergence, which is undoubtedly important for independent designer brands. Good environment.
The experience of the independent designer Liu Yanjun who founded the knitwear brand JUNNE reflects the transformation of the Chinese fashion industry. In 2010, Liu Yanjun, who just graduated from the Qing Paternity Institute, founded her own brand. “At that time, it was relatively simple and thought that it was good to make products. But then Fashion Week was mainly for commercial brands, even if the small designer brands did not make sense, the Showroom model and trade show did not develop.†Liu Yanjun said that the lack of The lack of experience in soil is also an important reason for the failure of entrepreneurship.
After the first venture failed, Liu Yanjun decided to study at the national knitting base in Tongxiang, Zhejiang. “Knitting is a science and technology activity. It is not a matter of understanding a line or a face. Technology-aware craftsmen are workers, and aesthetic designers do not understand technology.†In this context, Liu Yanjun studied at the knitting base. For five years, it wasn’t until the end of 2015 that it started its business again and established a knitted brand, JUNNE, and quickly emerged at Shanghai Fashion Week.
JUNENE first landed MODE in 2016 and reached a total of 8 million orders in the season. In 2017, with the success of the show, JUNNE made its debut on the Shanghai Fashion Week show floor. This quarter also continued to maintain the dual track of show release and show sales.
During the 4 days of the MODE show, JUNNE has been contacting customers for orders and the booth is full of people. “Old customers have increased their orders and the number of new customers has also doubled. The current order quantity has not yet been counted, but the overall situation is very good.†Liu Yanjun said.
Compared with Liu Yanjun, young designers who display on LABELHOOD, the fashion pioneer platform, are far more fortunate. Most of the brands participating in LABELHOOD are young and cutting-edge independent designer brands. The founders have education backgrounds of international fashion schools such as London Fashion Institute, Parsons School of Design, and Central Saint Martins Art School. Many times participated in LABELHOOD's Angel Chen, 8ON8, YIRANTIAN and other brands. After their founders all received international education, they chose to return to China to establish their own independent designer brand. The good industrial ethos promoted by Shanghai Fashion Week not only promoted the development of the industry, but also gave them the confidence to make such a choice.
LABELLOOD moved to Lafayette Arts Center this season and presented 20 unique pioneering works. Among them, seven young and emerging designers participated in the fashion demonstration unit for the first time. Designers with Western education background naturally attracted the attention of many international buyers. Rachel Cooper, a women's clothing buyer at Britain's Harvey Nichols Department Store, expressed his purchasing interest for participating in LABELHOOD's Private Policy, SHUSHU/TONG, Jamie Wei Huang and other brands.
Internationalization and consumption upgrade
In fact, the trends and opportunities presented at the Shanghai Fashion Week in recent years also reflect the process in which the Chinese fashion industry is in line with the world. On the one hand, media and fashion buyers from around the world came to Shanghai Fashion Week to tap into the emerging international design forces. On the other hand, along with the trend of domestic consumption upgrade, small and medium-sized brands have the opportunity to penetrate the domestic market more extensively through the form of buying shops.
Jackie Kim, deputy director of fashion at Barneys New York, said that coming to Shanghai made her feel as if she were back in New York. She said that during the fashion week in New York and Paris, there are also many Showroom where Chinese designer brands can be found. “These young designers play a dual role in the integration of Chinese and foreign fashion industries.†Jackie Kim said that Barneys New York has just launched on Tmall. “We are also very interested in the culture of the Chinese market and hope to adopt Shanghai Fashion.†Zhou, understand the wear and brand preferences of Chinese consumers."
Rachel Cooper, a women's wear buyer from Harvey Nichols, said: “The size of Shanghai Fashion Week may not be as great as in Paris or Milan, but it insists on unique originality. There is a huge market in China, and Chinese customers account for Harvey Nichols' international customers. A large proportion. This makes understanding the Chinese fashion industry very important to Harvey Nichols."
In the domestic market, the buyer model is becoming a trend, driven by both industry promotion and consumer upgrading. “MODE has been tracking buyers, hoping to understand who is buying and what to buy.†Zhang Jie said, “We have found that many traditional department stores have started to invite buyers to settle in, like Shanghai Bailian Group has also established its own buyer shop. Brands, and more and more consumers only know luxury goods and fast fashion brands from the beginning, and they are willing to patronize buyers and look for designer brands with unique styles."
At the same time, many buyers of Shanghai Fashion Week this season have come from Changsha, Wuhan, Xi’an, and Zhengzhou, and even far from cities such as Haikou, Urumqi, and Yanji. With more and more people pursuing personalized, light luxury clothing consumption, the model of buying a store has gradually become an important part of urban consumption, and has gradually expanded from Beijing and Shanghai to second- and third-tier cities. “The form of a buyer’s shop is very diverse. Apart from the traditional department stores in metropolitan areas, this ecology is also present in holiday resorts, high-end communities, and high-end hotels around the country, and the sales volume is very good.†Zhang Jie said.
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