Learning Point│Discussion on the finishing technology of denim fabric crimping resin [Washing technology]

Denim crease finishing is a more popular finishing process in recent years. Auxiliary manufacturers have also introduced many related auxiliaries, among which denim crumpling resin is the main one.

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1 Test

1.1 Fabrics, Drugs and Instruments

Fabric: Indigo-dyed denim (58 tex/58 tex, 283 pieces/10 cm X 173 pieces/10 cm), direct dye-dyed pure cotton poplin (14.8 tex/14.8 tex, 523 pieces/10 cm, X283 pieces/10 cm).

Pharmaceuticals: 2D resin (homemade), magnesium chloride, aluminum sulfate, sodium dihydrogen phosphate, ammonium chloride, citric acid, sodium fluoborate, zinc chloride (all of analytical grade, Sinopharm Group), non-ionic polyacrylamide (molecular weight) 1 million, Shanghai Hengyi Chemical Co., Ltd., penetrant JFC (Zhejiang Transchem).

Instrument: 101A-l electric heated blast constant temperature drying box (Shanghai Chongming Experimental Instrument Factory), YG (B) 026H-250 type strength instrument (Wenzhou Darong Textile Standard Instrument Factory), MACBETH 7000A colorimeter, YG (B ) 541D-II Automatic Digital Fabric Wrinkle Elasticity Meter (Wenzhou Darong Textile Standard Instrument Factory), VPM. IA rolling mill, PT-2A pin plate tenter.

1.2 Process

Cotton poplin crease finishing process padding resin working solution (2D resin 70g / L, rolling margin 70%) a pre-baking (100 °C × 1min) - baking (150 °C X3min) regain (24h) test.

1.3 Performance Test

(1) Crushing effect

Refer to GB/T 3819-1997 (Measurement of recovery angle of crease recovery of textile fabrics) to test the wrinkle recovery angle of the fabric after finishing, and combine visual evaluation of the crushing effect.

(2) Color change

The color difference (AE) of the color cloth before and after the crumpling treatment was measured with a MACBETH 7000A colorimeter.

(3) Tear strength

Refer to GB/T 3917.2-1997 "Textile fabric tear properties - Part 2: Determination of tear strength of tongue test" test.


2 Results and Discussion

2.1 Effect of Catalyst

Crumb finishing catalysts are generally inorganic salts or organic acids. Different catalysts have different activities, and many catalysts have an effect on direct dyes and are liable to cause color change. Different composite catalysts were used in the test and acted on direct cotton dyed cotton poplin. The results are shown in Table 1.

Table 1 Effect of catalyst on crease recovery angle, color change, and strength loss

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Note: The total amount of catalyst 15g/L

From Table 1, it can be seen that different catalysts have an effect on the color of the fabric, and the color change produced by the complex catalyst of magnesium chloride and citric acid is relatively small. Different catalysts have different activity. Among them, the flocculation recovery angle of the sodium fluoroborate and magnesium chloride catalysts is the highest, indicating that the catalytic activity is the highest, and the 2D resin crosslinks the most; however, the effect of sodium fluoborate on the discoloration and the strong loss are large, and the price More expensive, not suitable for use. Through comparative analysis, it was considered that citric acid was 0.3 g/L and magnesium chloride was 14.7 g/L. The catalytic effect had the lowest impact on fabric strength, moderate activity, and small color change, and was suitable as a catalyst for creping resin.

2.2 Effect of hardener

The 2D resin alone is used for denim crinkle finishing, the three-dimensional effect is not strong, the hand feel is soft, and the elasticity is not good, which is not conducive to subsequent processing. Generally, the hardness of the cloth can be adjusted by adding a hardener, which facilitates subsequent processing. At the same time, the hardness disappears after washing and does not affect the performance of the denim clothing. The test selected polyacrylamide as a hardener. The cotton poplin dyed with direct dyes was finished. The results are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 Effect of Polyacrylamide Content on Finishing Effect

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Note: The catalyst uses citric acid 0.3g/L, magnesium chloride 14.7g/L, the same below.

From Table 2, it can be seen that addition of polyacrylamide slightly increases the wrinkle recovery angle, and has little effect on the color change and strength.

2.3 The impact of strong protective agents

Due to the increase of the elastic modulus and rigidity of the cellulose fiber after resin finishing, the fiber is not easily deformed, so that the breaking strength, wear resistance and tear strength of the finished product are somewhat decreased. The test was conducted using a polyethylene wax emulsion TF-652 as a strong protective agent, and the cotton poplin dyed with direct dyes was cleaned. The test results are shown in Table 3.

Table 3 Effect of Polyethylene Wax Emulsion TF-652 on Finishing Effect

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As can be seen from Table 3, the use of a strong protective agent TF-652 can significantly reduce the strength loss, and has no effect on the color change. Therefore, the use of a strong protective agent in the process of denim can effectively reduce the loss of strength. Take the polyethylene wax emulsion TF-652 as an example, the dosage can be 15g/L.

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3 Application Examples

Denim Crush Finishing Prescription/(g/L)

Citric acid 0.3

Magnesium chloride 14.7

TF-652 15

3% polyacrylamide solution 20

2D resin 70

Penetrant JFC 2

Denim Crush Finishing Process Padded resin working solution (2D resin 70g/L, rolling allowance 70%) Dehydration-drying (95-110°C, moisture content 15%-20%) Bake (130°C×15min) out of the box and washed

4 Conclusion

The catalyst used in the denim crinkle finish produces a certain color change in the dyed fabric. The test found that the compound catalyst citric acid 0.3g/L, magnesium chloride 14.7g/L, the smallest color change finishing fabrics, lower strength loss. The hardener can enhance the three-dimensional effect of the denim, improve the processing performance, and has little effect on the crushing effect, discoloration and loss of strength. Strong protective agent TF. 652 can effectively improve the strength loss, the amount of 15g / L is appropriate. The optimized prescriptions are: 2D resin dosage 70g/L, hardener 20g/L, strong protective agent TF-652 15g/L, penetrant JFC2g/L. The optimized denim has good creasing effect, less loss of strength, and less discoloration.


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