London Fashion Week: Burberry Interprets the Kingdom of Riccardo Tisci

“Now children no longer have a say,” Riccardo Tisci told reporters gathered after the Burberry fashion show. “They are afraid to express themselves.”

Some people may not agree with this statement, after all, a group of British children will soon express their views on climate change issues next week. But Tisci's question suggests that he is still trying to grasp some of the details of life in the UK. He built a long-standing contrast with his own ideas: street culture and a solemn classic. It is reflected in the way the audience splits: the golden invitation is in a formal, layered theater, the silver invitation is in a huge metal cage, and the children climb like a thunder dome. Tisci wants his audience to have a very different experience, and people are not very sure why he is doing this.

The combination of high fashion and street culture provided the impetus for his Burberry debut, but this time he brought a huge leap. Last time, Tisci started from fashion and then returned to the streets. Feeling awkward and incoherent. But this season, logic dominates everything. The show tells a steadily growing story, from a mutant rugby striped dress to a red carpet dress. As with the last time, this series still has more than 100 shapes, but when the rhythm is properly controlled, you will have a smooth feeling.

Maybe Tisci feels better than last time. Although he talked a lot about "writing Bruberry," there were still many resoundations in the early years of Givenchy. On the one hand, it is the casting of male models. The other is a big, thick coat. A big man wearing a teddy bear coat made his body bigger, and then hung a small quilted wallet on the gold chain on his body. It feels like a typical Tisci image.

Declaring his ownership of the brand's long heritage has become part of his rewriting of the brand. In the world that Tisci calls the Kingdom of Burberry, his boys and girls are covered in huge, gorgeous fluffy shawls, or silk and cashmere blankets. (One of them is also funnyly printed with the romantic poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge's "The Ancient Sailor's Fog", the gloomy 19th century poet died in 1834, a year later, the brand founder Thomas Burberry was born) Tisci also put his own kingdom The address – Horseferry Road, where the brand headquarters is located – is printed on the bag and jacket, but the address is not so impressive, because until 2008, it was an office building.

The kingdom is layered by class. The same is true of Tisci's Burberry: nobility and civilians. (This is the basic principle of seating arrangements.) In his debut, the nobles wore classic haute couture. Here, the balance is adjusted. The sporty and street-inspired things look even more enticing, and the nobles are overshadowed by camel and look more like the Central European/European than the British. Creamy suit with pleated skirt, matching shirt and tie, hair combed neatly, Natalia Vodianova with rosy lips looks over-dressed. On the other hand, Fran Summers is wearing a tailored olive leather skirt set that conveys a common image to the world.

This is probably the ultimate key. Although Tisci verbally supports the British tradition, he still has to build his own little kingdom.

But he still does not want to reveal his views on the Brexit.